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The Log | School News

Into the Heart of the Amazon A ParksWatch Investigation of Illegal Logging in Peru's Alto Purús National Park

by Chris Fagan

It has been raining for over an hour and I sit hunched over with my head in my hands. Soaking wet and shivering, I watch the rain run off my head into the bloody water collecting in the bottom of our wooden dugout canoe. The source of the blood is an enormous catfish, upwards of 60 pounds I estimate, lying lifeless in the bow. It was speared this morning by Manúel, one of the Sharanahua indigenous men from a nearby village that we’ve hired as our guides.

Despite my discomfort, the rain has made me feel optimistic about the long journey that lies ahead. It’s the first heavy rain we’ve had since leaving Puerto Esperanza 10 days ago, and hopefully it marks the start of the rainy season and a rising river. With any luck, we’ll be able to continue traveling upstream for two more days before low water forces us to finish the journey on foot.

• • •

It was October 2004, and we were deep within Peru’s Alto Purús Reserved Zone, a vast 2.7 million hectare rainforest wilderness in one of the most remote and poorly explored regions of southeastern Peru. Concerned with reports of loggers illegally extracting bigleaf mahogany (Swietenia macrophylla) from the reserve, the Ucayali state government asked for ParksWatch’s help. Since 2000, ParksWatch, a program of Duke’s Nicholas School’s Center for Tropical Conservation, has conducted threat assessments in more than 80 protected areas throughout Central and South America, and is considered to have great expertise on Peru’s protected areas. By documenting the illegal logging and disseminating the information, we hoped to catalyze actions to mitigate the threat and strengthen the protected area. Our intention was to traverse the reserve by boat and on foot to visit the supposed logging sites.

In addition, at the time of the investigation, the Peruvian government was dukenvironment 16 considering a new conservation category for the reserved zone, and we also were hopeful that our findings would support a pending proposal to elevate the Alto Purús to national park status, giving it the strictest protection possible under Peruvian law.

The Alto Purús Reserved Zone is one of the most important and best-preserved refuges for endemic and globally endangered species in all of Amazonia, and throughout our journey we were constantly reminded of the remarkable biodiversity that surrounds us.

One afternoon we watched a magnificent jaguar, pregnant and lethargic, sunning herself on the riverbank. Unaccustomed to humans, she sat unperturbed as our canoe, its motor coughing and sputtering, approached to within 30 feet of her before she sauntered into the forest. Each morning we were woken before dawn by bands of howler monkeys whose guttural, dinosaurlike roars seemed to literally shake our tents. At sunset, we watched the sky become as busy as a city street during rush hour with pairs of blue and yellow and scarlet macaws crisscrossing on their way to roost in the receding sunlight. One evening we counted more than 40 macaws fly over the beach where we were camped.

But perhaps even more remarkable than its biodiversity is the reserve’s importance as the home for some of the last indigenous people living in voluntary isolation on Earth. The Mashco-Piro, locally referred to as simply the Mashco, are the larger of at least two distinct tribes of these uncontacted indigenous people that use the reserve on their seasonal migration. These hunters and gatherers continue to resist modern society despite ever-increasing encroachment into their territory by missionaries, drug traffickers and, more recently, loggers.

As stands of commercially viable mahogany become increasingly rare throughout the Amazon, the still-lawless frontier that is the Alto Purús harbors one of the largest remaining populations of mahogany in Peru, has become a hot-spot for illicit logging. In addition to threatening the overall viability of the reserve, the illegal loggers threaten the survival of the Mashco, whose immune systems are susceptible to the unfamiliar viruses brought by outsiders.

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photo captions: 1.Traveling up Sepahua and Alto Purús Rivers; 2.Sharanahua man holding Amazonian catfish; 3.Sharanahua woman and Black-headed owl monkey (Aotus nigriceps); 4.Mashco – Piro shelter and campfire; 5.Traveling up Sepahua and Alto Purús Rivers; 6. Jaguar (Panthera onca)
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