Dispatches From The Field

10 July, 2003 -- Carrie Vander Zwaag

Today was the day that the reality of the approaching Earthwatch Team 1 deparature really hit home for most of us. It is the last night that we will all be sleeping on site. Luke, Luis, and many others depart tomorrow by autobrousse. Because time is getting short, we Earthwatchers are trying to fit as much into our days (even cutting into the precious siesta time) as possible: final laundry requests, trips to baobabs, expeditions to lavakas, and the daily JBB and JBA trapchecks. Fortunately, the rare treat of sun-protecting afternoon clouds made all that we wanted to do a little more feasible. Part of the team spent the morning in Andranofasika visiting with villagers and attending a local Protestant church service. The prelude included an vast assortment of songs available on the pre-set play mode of any electric keyboard, from "Dance of the Sugar Plum Fairies" to "Danny Boy". The message called people to gather as a church community--to participate and help each other. Especially meaningful was the pastor's acknowledgement of our presence not just in church but in Madagascar. He prayed for success in our research endeavors and safety in our travels.

The evening meal featured spaghetti with fresh tomato sauce, a non-traditional treat enjoyed heartily by us vazahas, and was followed by a traditional dance folklorique performed by the women's groups of Ambodimanga and Ampijoroa. Stage lights were provided courtesy of the Fossamanga (aka the camp truck's headlights) and a flickering campfire. Seated on reed mats, we were soon encompassed by the syncopation of drums. Matching dresses and flashy lambas soon cascaded through the air, accenting the women's rhythmic choreography. The dances ranged thematically from welcomes and hospitality to fossa conservation and fire prevention.

We quickly discovered that there is no subtle tipping at Malagasy social events such as these--all FMGs (the Malagasy currency) are placed in a lamba that is laid on the ground at the front of the dance floor. Our feeble attempts at the traditional "tip-dancing" were matched only by our not-so-choreographed vazahas YMCA, chicken dance, macarena, and electric slide dance medley. As we walked back to camp in the moonlight we mused that it is definitely fortunate that the Malagasy have not only a rich, beautiful culture but also a great sense of humor.

Carrie Vander Zwaag