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July 3, 2004
"Fantastic Folklore Festivities"
by Dave Kiely

After the dinner at the of the second day in the forest, the project team decamped to the nearby village. The reason for the short trip was that we had all been invited to enjoy a performance of traditional folklore song and dance by the resident women's group.

Finding ourselves sitting among much of the local population, we were treated to several renditions. The group swayed and stepped together in time with the rhythmic pounding of a drum, which was overlaid by a series of charming vocal melodies, each of which had a specific meaning that was explained to us in turn as the event progressed. With everything lit by the flickering of several bonfires, the sounds and movements proved to be wonderfully hypnotic. To me, it was also notable that the scene was much more reminiscent of similar festivities that I had previously seen in the south Pacific rather than those on the other side of the Mozambique Channel in mainland Africa. Meanwhile, a great deal of fun was had by the whole audience when each of the visiting vazaha danced up to the lamba laid out in front of the performers in order to make a donation.

However, the one thing that particularly struck me was just how much obvious pride and effort had been put in by people who lead much harder lives than many of us will ever know. And it was also more than just a feast for eyes and ears. It is highly symbolic of one of the initially less obvious positive effects of the project. The women's group started off with such performances, and in doing so literally paid for the foundations of the campsite where we are been looked after so well, which provides a source of income that is a vital alternative to exploiting the natural resources of the national park. After all, the hungry person cannot be blamed for thinking only as far as their next meal rather than the longer term future of the environment.

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