July 9, 2004
"Far out in the fragments"
by Dave Kiely

Although helping with the research about the life and times of the fossa is the main reason for us volunteers to be here, there is also another ongoing that we can partake in. Several people have also been busy studying what biodiversity is present in the smaller areas that have been left standing like islands of trees in the deforested parts of the national park.

Helping out with this process can make for a lengthier day, as three walks are required (rather than the two trap check outings that make up a more usual day). Meanwhile, the far fragment that was our destination proved to be very well named, for it was indeed quite a long walk away. But, as they say, a change is as good as a rest, and the opportunity to see some different things was one that could not be missed.

The morning and afternoon sessions yielded no lemur sightings. However, this was not a surprise because the park's two diurnal species are larger and require bigger ranges than can be found in a fragment. However, walking through the savannah on route to our destination was a pleasure that compensated for lack of animal activity. The landscape of dry grass punctuated only by the very occasional tree and numerous anthills has a certain sparsely picturesque aspect.

Meanwhile, watching dusk set in whilst sat on the edge of a lavaka was a real highlight of the day. These canyons form when forest is destroyed and topsoil is blown away, leaving the field clear for the then unstoppable force that is erosion. Fundamentally, it is depressing reminder of the environmental depredations that man continues to cause, but it is also a thing of remarkable beauty, especially as the setting sun bathes the reds and oranges of the exposed earth in a wonderfully warm light. With the three of us enjoying an energy restoring snack whilst contemplating the lovely but tragic scene, a silence descended - an extremely refreshing change to the Americans' beloved country and western music that is heard so often back at camp!

When night fell, the quiet was brought to a halt as many nocturnal species woke up, and it was time to go lemur spotting once more. The forest feels very different in the darkness; much more alive. As we scanned the trees with torches, pairs of tiny eyes reflected the beams. They belonged to mouse lemurs, the most abundant of the island's unique and endemic primates, which as the name suggests are rather small creatures. We were very fortunate because on several occasions, the normally very active little creatures remained completely still in the light, allowing for a great view of their tiny features and furry bodies.

By the time we had hiked back, met our lift and returned to camp for food, it felt like a long day. However, it had proved to be a very rewarding one too.