July 11, 2004
"Le Danse Folklorique"
by Dawn Paul

In recognition of Independence Day, the Womens Association, led by Madame Albertine, invited us to their "Danse Folklorique" on the evening of the 3rd July.

We were all excited as we walked down the sandy path that led from the camp, headlights and torches lighting our way, stars shining brightly overhead. As we came to the main road, we saw the bright orange glow of three tall bonfires marking the site of the dance. Large grass mats had been laid down on the sand for us to sit on. I saw an elderly local woman sitting cross legged on the sand, she seemed to have a large bundle of rags on her lap. She looked at me and gave a one-toothed grin which lit up her face, I invited her to sit down next to me, which she did, shaking my hand, saying " Salama, Salama" (Malagasy for hello). She moved the rags apart on her lap to uncover a beautiful sleeping baby, his soft skin glowing in the firelight.

Suddenly, the drumming started and a line of women wearing pretty navy and gold floral dresses got in to position in front of us. They started to sing a beautiful melody, moving in time to the drum beat, feet stamping the ground in short staccato rhythm, arms gracefully moving through the air. The movements were strong - a portrayal of feminine energy and power. Their clear voices were carried into the night sky by the gentle warm breeze.

I noticed that during the dance, several small local children had come to sit next to me, one little boy of about 2 years old had sat between my legs, eagerly clapping his little hands together along with the drum beat. Very quietly, the girls sitting next to me started to sing along with the ladies. When I looked at them, they stopped and became shy. I motioned for them to carry on, which they did, self-consciously at first and then with more confidence. One by one, members of the audience stood up and danced around a lamba (a malagasy sarong) laid on the sand, dropping money onto it to loud applause from the crowd. I stood up, the little boy holding my hand as we danced round the shawl. I started to clap along to the music with the little boy and the girls followed me, then the old lady started to clap and then all of the audience joined in.

When the dance ended, the crowd cheered and whooped. "Woo-hoo" I shouted, " Woo-hoo" copied the old lady at my side laughing. She squeezed my hand and gave me another of her toothy smiles. I felt so lucky to be there, it is a memory that will stay with me forever.