June 25, 2004
"Back in the forest!"
by Julie Pomerantz, team veterinarian

It is wonderful to be back in Madagascar! Tana looks great – there has obviously been a lot of effort put into rebuilding, new building and general sprucing up.

Every time I come here the city feels more familiar – still exotic and not quite like home – but less overwhelming. Today is the day before Malagasy Independence day and it has been declared a holiday so most businesses are closed and the streets are relatively empty.

After running a few city errands we pack up our things and set off on the eight hour drive to Ankarafantsika. The drive to get there provides a great opportunity to see the landscape of Madagascar and to contemplate the effect humans have had in shaping the landscape.

As we leave Tana we are traveling through the high plateau with its endless expanses of dry grassland. The hillsides are scarred by the erosion pits called lavakas – great gashes in their sides. There are almost no trees and the few that remain have had all but their uppermost branches cut for firewood. As we come down from the highlands we pass through the town of Maevatanana – the hottest town in Madagascar – this dusty oven of a place is our usual stop for lunch but I almost dread getting out of the car because the breeze of the open window is the only thing keeping me from suffocating. After lunch we hit the road again. The scenery gradually changes as we enter the watershed of Ankarafantsika forest. Barren grasslands are replaced by rice paddies and isolated patches of scrubby plants and occasional Mango trees are seen. However there is no trace of the rich forests that once covered this region. After our long ride our reward is to finally reach the Ankarafantsika forest – the shade of its trees is a welcome sight after the long hot journey.

I am happy to be back in Ankarafantsika and to be among the wonders of this forest – the lemurs, lizards, birds, insects, plants – and of course the fossas! It makes me very sad to contemplate what diversity has been lost on those barren hillsides.