June 21, 2004
"First impressions"
by Laurel Redding
After a two-hour long wait in the check-in line at Orly,
a ten-hour long restless flight (no pillow or movies!),
and a half-hour long wait for my baggage, I finally met
Jodie and Pierrot at the airport and crawled into a cab
towards Luke’s house in Tana. The drive into the city was
pure eye-candy the entire way – the marshy rice paddies,
the slow-plodding zebu-driven carts, the women balancing
over a dozen bricks on their heads…
Tana itself, if you can survive breathing in fumes from
cars that almost exclusively use diesel, is a fun place
and the prices are ridiculously cheap: so much so, that
I changed $200 and got Malagasy Franc bills of $2.5 denominations
(quite a brick you can imagine!). My first few days have
been amazing. The team is really great – I happen to be
the youngest and the last one to arrive, but I have nevertheless
been welcomed extremely warmly. I’m excited about being
able to work with such a dynamic group!
My first few days in Tana have permitted me in some ways
to foreshadow what awaits me ahead: I got to see all kinds
of indigenous wildlife at the Croc farm (lemurs, crocodiles,
a fossa, chameleons…), that I will probably encounter to
some extent at the site. On the other hand, we have been
fine dining to an extent I certainly don’t expect on the
campsite – crocodile brochettes, zebu steaks, fine French
pasteries…
While I’ve been enjoying Tana, I am looking forward to
taxi-broussing it up to Ankarafantsika and getting started
on the project.