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June 5, 2004
"Antananarivo—First Impressions"
by Sean McCarthy

I arrived in Antananarivo (Tana for short) at 10:00 PM on Friday, June 4th so I didn’t get to see the city until the next morning. We all got up pretty early that my first day here because we had a lot of errands to run before we left for the site the next day.

The first stop was to get some of my US currency exchanged over to Malagasy Francs (FMGs). The exchange rate is 1 US dollar = 10,000 FMGs. The largest bill they have here is for 50,000 FMGs, the equivalent of 5 US dollars. So when I changed my money over, I walked out with q huge brick of Malagasy money. I felt like it should’ve been in a briefcase handcuffed to my wrist. I guess it is just one sign of the huge difference between our economy and the one here in Madagascar.

Out on the street, people are always trying to sell us things, fro, strawberries to Malagasy flags. We definitely stick out as vazas (Malagasy for foreigner) because we are the only white people around. This makes the vendors try even harder to sell us stuff.

Women are carrying HUGE baskets on their heads just by balancing them with no help from their hands. Their ability to balance such heavy loads while walking barefoot through busy city streets is amazing. Some men pull carts called “pus pus” loaded with people of goods like I’m used to seeing horses draw carts. The men are also barefoot.

The part of Tana that really shocked me was a neighborhood that ran parallel to a water drainage ditch. The people live in tiny huts with aluminum roofs, in very tight quarters to their neighbors. I saw a man going to the bathroom near the ditch; in broad daylight, while children were playing nearby. This apparently horrible hygiene problem is shocking and sad to me as an outsider, but it seems normal to the people passing in the street. Just one example of how different everyday life is here in Madagascar compared to our Western lifestyle.



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